Valve job & Cylinder Head work
Our everyday goal is customer satisfaction and providing the best quality of work. In today’s world of high RPM motors you need the right equipment to get the job done correctly , we use a serdi seat and guide machine, one of the best machine on the market today, the concentricity of the seat is so important, what is concentricity?? Concentricity is the trueness of the seat, the way this works is every time the valve meets the seat the heat from the valve is dissipated into the seat allowing the valve to cool to a point, if the concentricity of the seat is not true, the valve will not meet the seat correctly causing loss of power and overheating and weaken the valve, which will lead to premature motor damage, a lot of shop will just install new valve, and or cut the seats with the old style hand tools this does not work, the seats wear as well as the valves do, you cannot get good concentricity with this style of tooling, and concentricity is everything.
We offer and replace valves, stainless steel valves, titanium valves, and steel valves, along with the correct valve springs for each type of valve.
We offer different type of valve seats, as well as Pro-1 Racing Non Beryllium Copper seats, as well as beryllium seats, these seats Dissipates heat 7 times faster than stock and are not prone to chipping or cracking, and because they are copper they give a softer cushion to the valve = less wear, and you also get a much better seal with the copper seats.


This is the before and after of a valve job




Cylinder Boring
Cylinder boring is a must to renew the power and performance of your motor I have been boring cylinders for over 30 years, so yes, I do know what I’m doing, as we ride are motorcycles in time the piston and rings along with the cylinder wear out, we lose power and the performance we once had, by boring the cylinder and sizing it to a new piston we regain the performance and power the motor was meant to have, I bore my cylinders and then do a nice chamfer on all the ports top and bottom, then I use a sunnen hone to size the cylinder to the piston using a 320 grit finishing hone, on the exhaust port on a 2 stroke with a bridge type, I relieve the bridge as well to prevent seizing, we like to use wiseco pistons they have been around sense the beginning of time, this is a forged piston and works very well in all applications, then we have the cast pistons, (which is like what the dealer uses this is also a good piston, however with the cast pistons as they wear and get lose, especially in the two stroke motors they have a tendency to crack and brake causing a lot of motor damage, with all are bore jobs and the top ends we install as well we give to you an instruction sheet on how to put the top end on as well as the brake in procedure.


Cylinder Resleeving
I have been doing cylinder resleeving for like 25 years, I have done hundreds and hundreds of these, I bore the cylinder to an interference fit, I heat my cylinder and drop in my new sleeve being very careful to a line the ports on the cylinder housing with the ports on the sleeve, I then very quickly put the cylinder in my jig and apply pressure to it while it cools, this will prevent the sleeve from trying to rize out of the liner, after it cools down I then match the ports and then I bore the new sleeve to the new piston, I surface the head, and then size up the piston to the new sleeve with my sunnen 320 grit finishing hone, I relieve the bridge in the exhaust port if the application applies to this model, You will get a instructions sheet on how to put this together as well as how to brake this in, are goal is happy customers.


